Skating; such a critical part of the game of hockey
and yet, very few hockey players can answer the
question, "Are my skates sharp?" Not until it is,
perhaps, too late.
He suits up in the dressing room or at home, laces up while the coach puts him through a chalk talk or motivational speech, kibitzes around with his team mates in the dressing room, pumps up his mind in preparation for "the game", hits the ice amidst thoughts of victory and shouts of "We're number one", a couple of turns around his half of the ice as a warm-up, and then it smacks him right in the forefront of his mind like a brick wall...I SHOULD HAVE GOT MY SKATES SHARPENED! It is at precisely that point that a hockey player realizes that whatever he expects from his skates, the most expensive piece of equipment, will not be forthcoming. Hours upon hours of games, practices, hockey and power skating schools have conditioned him to know intuitively, what, exactly his skates will do for him on the ice and how they will perform for him throughout the game. And just what does he expect from his skates? Well, to be able to stop exactly when and where he wants to; to be able to shift his weight while going full tilt and change direction; to be able to lean into a turn at an angle that defies the laws of gravity and physics, and propel himself out the other side; to be able to dig his skates in and accelerate. And it is not going to happen! With a little knowledge and practice of some new skills, this kind of situation can be avoided, by knowing what sharp skates are supposed to feel like before stepping onto the ice. Here's how:
1. make sure skate blades and your hands are dry and warm. This is important because cold hands will limit the sense of touch, and any moisture will "lubricate" the edges to the extent where a true reading will not be possible.
2. turn one skate upside down and turn it facing away from you so you are looking down the length of the blade. You can rest it on a table or your knees.
3. place the inside of your thumbs on the edges (one inside edge, one outside edge) and lightly drag your thumbs over and off the side of the blade. Repeat this at several (8 to 10) places along the length of the blade.
4. if the blade is sharp, you will notice a definite "drag" on the skin of your thumbs. This "drag" will be consistent on both the inside and outside edges as well as down the length of the blade.
5. if the blade has lost its edge at any point, the "drag" will be less, or not there at all.
6. repeat this for the other skate.
This little exercise must be practiced, though. The best time to practice it is right after a sharpening, so you can develop a "feel" for just how the edges should be. If you develop that "feel", try using your finger tips. Hold one skate in your hand, upside down, and draw the four finger tips of the other hand off the blade, very lightly. Do both edges and both skates. If you can't warm up your hands or the edges are wet, try the back of the thumbnail method. Very light pressure is all that is needed. If there is any edge at all, small shavings of nail will deposit on the blade. Anything other than an even amount of nail shavings on the blade (down the length and on both sides) will mean the edges are not evenly sharp and may require a tune-up.
As a guideline, inside edges tend to wear more quickly than the outside edges. Also, the front half, or so, of the blade more so than the back half. Keep this in mind as you inspect your skates between sharpenings. Most of the high-end, more costly and sturdier skates have blades made of stainless steel. As the edges wear on these temper-hardened blades, the edges "chip" away because the steel is brittle. This can't be seen with the naked eye, but can be felt with "trained" finger tips. On the softer, carbon-based blades (this type is still quite common) the edges bend with wear creating "burrs" at wear points along the blade. Used properly, a honing or sharpening stone will shave off the burrs and, in effect, "prop up" the edge for continued use. Used regularly, these stones can lengthen the time between sharpening by 20 to 40 percent. On the stainless blades, honing doesn't do much except to smooth out larger nicks that might be picked up by skates colliding or running into a goal post. And there you have it. It is not a difficult thing to do. It just requires a little practice and discipline (something familiar to most hockey players) to be able to determine if your skates are sharp.
Lacing of the skates is also very important. The skate laces should be of proper size, not too long or too short. Longer laces must not be wrapped circumferentially around the skate because it can cut off blood flow to the child’s foot and inhibit skating ability. Longer laces can be tucked underneath the hockey socks but should never be long enough to be able to fall beneath the skate blades. Laces that are too short may be difficult to secure in place. The child should be instructed to "kick back" his/her heel to the back of the skate boot before securing the skates. The laces must be tied tight enough to provide ankle stability with out cutting off circulation to the feet. Some laces that can be purchase are waxed. Waxed laces seem to stay in place tighter while lacing the skate. Check the laces for cuts prior to use. It is advisable to carry an extra set of laces in the gear bag in case of a lace becoming damaged or broken during practice or a game.
Take care of you skates by drying the blades after coming of the ice. Make sure to use soakers or skate guards. Do not walk on non-padded surfaces such as concrete or metal bleachers
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Stick:
The stick is either a left or right "shot" depending on player preference (there are also straight blades – good for beginners with an undetermined shooting preference). Stick choice does not necessarily correlate with whether a child is left or right handed. A right-handed player may choose or be more comfortable with "shooting left" (right hand on the top of the shaft and left hand held lower on the shaft). When purchasing a stick for a young player attention should be paid to proper sizing. Often adult sized sticks are purchased then cut down to size. The problem with using a "cut down" adult stick is the shaft is too wide (thick), the blade is too long and the over all weight is too heavily. All of these factors lead to stick handling problems and fatigue. Junior or intermediate sticks can be purchased that are lighter weight. Additionally these sticks are proportionally correct with a smaller shaft and blade making it easier for the smaller player to handle.
Proper stick length is also very important and there are multiple methods for measuring proper stick length. One method is with skates on place the tip of the stick blade between the skates (shaft vertical); the butt of the shaft should lie between the chin and lips of the player. Some defensemen prefer their sticks longer providing them longer reach to poke check a puck off an opposing player’s stick. Some forwards prefer shorter sticks for greater puck handling ability. However when skating the player’s blade should be flat on the ice. A stick that is too long may cause the stick to lie back on its heel with the blade off the ice or cause the player to skate in an upright position.
Stick taping is also very important for better puck control. Taping the blade of the stick prevents the puck from sliding off the stick easily. Taping the butt end provides a grip for the top hand. The amount and style of tape for the grip end is of player preference. The blade is usually taped from heel to toe. Tape color is also usually of the players preference. Some believe that black tape on the blade "hides" the puck from the goaltender. Stick wax can be applied to directly to the tape to provide a waterproof barrier that may prolong the life of the tape and the stick.
Note: Usually you will see goaltenders with all white tape on their sticks. The butt end of the shaft is usually white and not black so a referee doesn’t mistakenly see black tape on the butt end as a puck crossing the goal line. The blades are usually white for better visibility when the puck is at the goaltenders feet or passing off to a defenseman.
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Underwear:
Should be light and comfortable and of a material that wicks away moisture from the skin. Under wear can be long or short depending on player preference. Underwear should be washed after every use. Other underwear includes garters and suspenders for holding up gear.
